There are some places that are intrinsically linked to the name of a person. Without these associations, these places would still retain their natural beauty, but they would undoubtedly be less captivating. In Veneto, in the province of Treviso, the town of Possagno is one of these places. It is here that Antonio Canova, one of Italy's most famous sculptors and certainly the most significant figure of Neoclassicism, was born. He was active between the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The Metropolitan Museum of New York describes him as follows: “Together with the painter Jacques Louis David, he is credited with inaugurating a new aesthetic of clear and regularized forms, and a calm repose inspired by classical antiquity. He was also renowned for his skill in carving and the refinement of his marble surfaces, which seemed as soft as real flesh.”
It was here, in Possagno, that the artist was born and spent part of his life. Even when he traveled, Canova never forgot his homeland, contributing at his own expense to the construction of a church, now known as the Canova Temple, located right in front of the Gypsotheca Museum. These two sites are essential stops for travelers visiting Veneto.
The Largest Gypsotheca in Europe
Possagno is a small village nestled at the foot of Mount Grappa in the province of Treviso. The road that crosses the town lies almost halfway between the two must-see wonders: the Canova Temple above, and the Gypsotheca below, where the original plaster models from which the marble sculptures now housed in the world’s most important museums were cast. The Gypsotheca of Possagno is the largest in Europe and is designed as a grand basilica, divided into three sections illuminated from above by three large skylights.
After restoration work following the 1917 bombing, architect Carlo Scarpa was commissioned to expand the Gypsotheca and reconfigure its exhibits between 1955 and 1957.
Canova became one of the most admired artists of his time for his vision of the Greek canon of perfect beauty, as well as for his ability to tell a story within another, narrating his life or thoughts through the figures in his statues, thus making his art universal. To make the visit even more special, a candlelit guided tour can be booked, offering an intimate look at Canova's search for beauty as night falls. What is already an extraordinary discovery during the day becomes even more moving in the evening.
Equally important is the Master’s house, located within the same complex as the Gypsotheca. Today it is a museum that displays paintings, engravings, drawings, some of the artist's marbles, as well as his working tools.
A Small Detour to Discover Carlo Scarpa
A special mention should go to Carlo Scarpa, who worked on the expansion of this museum. Carlo Scarpa was a highly influential 20th-century Venetian architect, whose distinctive features are immediately noticeable to those familiar with his work. In Venice, his works include the Olivetti Store in Piazza San Marco, the redesign of the Querini Stampalia Foundation Garden, and the Sculpture Garden created for the Biennale.
Just a few kilometers from Possagno, we can find another of his beautiful creations: the Brion Memorial, the grave of the Brion couple (from the electronics company Brionvega) and some of their relatives. The charm of this place lies in its forms, materials, vistas, and colors… Located in San Vito d'Altivole, in the Treviso countryside, this area is both the birthplace and beloved home of Giuseppe Brion. It was the last work commissioned from Scarpa in 1969 by Giuseppe's wife. Completed between 1970 and 1978, the year of the architect’s death.
The Canova Temple
Inspired by the Pantheon and the Parthenon, the Canova Temple is the result of the sculptor’s dedication and vision. Not only did he oversee its design, but he also financed almost the entire construction as a gift to his city. It is an imposing neoclassical structure with a double row of eight Doric columns, echoing the Parthenon in Athens, a central cylindrical body similar to the Roman Pantheon, and an elevated apse like those in ancient Christian basilicas.
The temple was designed by Canova between 1804 and 1818, and the first stone was laid in 1819 with a grand celebration by the citizens. The costs of the temple were almost entirely borne by the sculptor, and nearly the entire community of Possagno participated in its construction. Inside, along with works by Luca Giordano and Palma il Giovane, is the tomb of the artist and his brother Giovanni Battista Sartori. While these sites alone would be enough to fill a weekend, this less-traveled area of Veneto offers much more to discover, at a pace that matches the special nature of these places. There are many cultural and natural sites nearby, such as Asolo, Bassano del Grappa, the Palladian Villas, and the Monte Grappa Biosphere Reserve, all waiting to be explored.
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